6.00pm - 6.45pm

The Holly Bush
22 Holly Mount
London NW3 6SG

- Beauty is a rare and precious thing in this world and it is even rarer and more precious in a public house. The Hollybush is one of the older pubs in London dating from the time when Hampstead was a country town. Inside this listed building, its stripped wooden interior and slightly ramshackle atmosphere lend it the charming aspect of a Nineteenth Century coaching inn. That said, it can get a little crowded at times (although we have spent many a Saturday afternoon and evening here without suffering unduly) and some of the punters do seem like parodies of Guardian-readers. But there is something deeply fine about this place - maybe the history, maybe the wooden booths and log fire, or maybe the good beers - which engenders wit and conviviality.

6.50pm - 7.30pm

The Horseshoe
28 Heath St
Hampstead NW3 6TE

- Well, the change couldn't have been a more marked. From the ashes of a dire boozer that was once a Wetherspoon, a couple of the 'horseshoes' in the name have disappeared and instead we now have a gastrofied 'Brewhouse and Dining' establishment. Thankfully though for a gastropub, if there's an 'eating only' section it's hidden away, as the main front area was clearly open to everyone. Indeed, on the issue of food, it was, not unexpectedly, being prepared in an open kitchen and prices were in the £10-18 range. Although this isn't frightening to moneyed Hampstead residents, even if the food did look pretty good, the prices might make some baulk. On the drinks front, lagers were behind frustratingly anonymous taps, but top marks for having two barrels of Adnams behind the bar for some straight-from-the-keg real ale and even a bitter brewed on-site. Its early days here but things are looking positive: its certainly a welcome change from its previous incarnation.

7.35pm - 8.20pm

The Flask
14 Flask Walk
Hampstead NW3 1HG

- One of the most popular pubs in Hampstead with both locals and tourists, this is a very solid rather than spectacular boozer. Its design is Victorian, with banquettes in the lounge, a decorated screen separating the public bar, and a modern conservatory at the back. The usual Young's beers are on tap, and the staff are friendly enough. Don't come here for a hectic Saturday night out, but if you want a warm and friendly pub for a few jars and a chat, give it a go.

8.25pm - 8.55pm

Wells Tavern
30 Well Walk
London NW3 1BX

- Its been vaguely interesting to watch the subtle transformation of the Wells since it first opened, for things have been changing. It's more style than substance, but it's a start. Firstly, their classification as a 'restaurant-bar' has been quietly dropped and replaced with 'pub and restaurant'. Also, their boast of 'Jatoba wood floorboards', which appeared on their pseuds corner worthy website, has been replaced with the more down-to-earth feature of board games. Once an average pub (self-titled "Hampstead's last affordable pub"), it was in desperate need of an overhaul. Its new incarnation however dedicates most of the space to eating, leaving drinkers sitting at the front, squinting at little brass plaques to see what beers are on offer. Inside, it's a Sunday supplement utopia, with clich_d phrases like 'clean lines' never far from people's lips. The food may be "award-winning", but the whole place feels calculated, with any pub spirit forcefully eradicated. However, it's clearly something people want and certainly something previously absent from Hampstead. Considering local residents battled hard with property developers to prevent it being turned into "luxury conceptual living spaces", we should be grateful for small mercies. Nevertheless, one can't help imagine what could've been. Still, in the words of former Hampstead resident John Keats, "There is nothing stable in the world..."

Burgh House is named after Dr Allotson de Burgh, a local musicologist and clergyman.

There is a stone drinking fountain in Well Walk that supplies water from the chalybeate springs in the area. At the beginning of the 18th Century, Hampstead was almost as popular as Tunbridge Wells or Bath (and obviously much closer to the city of London) for the curative value of its waters.

Further along Well Walk from the Wells Tavern, is the house where John Constable took a country house (!) in the summer, returning to the city & Charlotte Street in the winter. The house is No.40 Well Walk.

9.00pm - 9.45pm

Ye Olde White Bear
Well Road
Hampstead NW3 1LJ

- It's far from easy to pinpoint the finest public house in Hampstead, such is the strength and breadth of the competition, but Ye Olde White Bear is certainly in the running. It's comfortable and friendly, has board games and a good selection of beers, there's decent food that, although not particularly cheap, is certainly neither the most expensive nor the most pretentious in the neighbourhood. A splendid establishment.

9.50pm - closing

Duke Of Hamilton
23 New End
Hampstead NW3 1JD

- Not the most famous pub in Hampstead but arguably one of the friendliest, the Duke of Hamilton is an amiable local which you soon warm to. It has an excellent barman and one or two regulars who are always up for a chat. They pride themselves on their wide selection of real ales, which usually include some well-kept seasonal choices. With a relaxed unpretentious atmosphere, it's the sort of pub you wish was your local. Go see.